Since it was gorgeous out last Saturday (read: above 45, sun visible), Betsy and friends took an excursion to Brooklyn.   1 brunch, 2 bridges, 2 flea markets, 6 macaroons, and about 387 painfully hip young families later …  we report back.

First, getting there.  The Manhattan Bridge has a decent pedestrian path; granted, the ambience is more metal-fence than feat-of-engineering, but it’s not crowded and affords some interesting views of illegal rooftop activity, dirty laundry (literally), the latest in graffiti art, and, eventually, the East River.   Hop off the path on the other side and you’re a few steps away from the area known as dumbo  (appropriately, Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), which, like all good acronym-ed New York neighborhoods, is over-hyped but still worth a visit.

Think cobblestone streets, old warehouses, faded industrial signs and river views (i.e. Meatpacking District, pre-2000).   Tucked in among the architecture are envy-inducing loft apartments,  organic food stores, and a raft of specialty coffeehouses, bars, bookstores and clothing boutiques.   Starved,  we made a beeline for Bubby’s – the Brooklyn outpost of the Tribeca brunch joint.  It’s a beautiful space – huge windows, double height ceilings, and great views of the water.

It’s also mobbed with young parents, their fashionable offspring, and their strollers.   These are sophisticated young urbanites.   (Overheard from the 6-year old set:  “I have two Benjamins!”  “Mommy, don’t get drunk!”)  (How is this child in possession of $200?  Is Mom really drunk?)  It was charming, a bit frightening and our advice is, get there before 1230 or eat elsewhere.

Speaking of eating.  The sourdough pancakes studded with strawberries and bananas were delicious (but definitely add maple syrup – sour is sour) and the bacon blue cheese burger w/ fries is also recommended.  Great cappuccino too.   $50 later – not cheap, Bubby’s – it was off to shop at the Brooklyn Flea Market.

Located on the corner of Front and Washington Streets, the market is split into two venues.   One sells mostly clothing, jewelry, and nibbleworthy food – you can sample & buy homemade Greek-style yogurt, jarred pickles, teeny cupcakes, “raw” chocolate, gourmet coffee and lots of baked goods.  (Also, a stand serving tamales and related eats – looong line for that one. ) Plenty of independent artists here with handcrafted necklaces, framed prints and silkscreened T-shirts;  also some friendly people pushing vintage threads and bags and cases full of old (and old-fashioned) brooches, earrings and the like.

The location across the street is lighter on food and heavier on bigger items like lamps and furniture and 60′s-era housewares, plus picture frames, more vintage clothing, and a big Selima Optique stand selling so-ugly-they’re-cool eyeglasses (which stirred up some disturbing middle-school memories).   You can get some great deals – we found a beautiful frame for $5 and lovely gemstone necklaces for $20-40 each – but there’s also the strong possibility that what looks charming at a flea market on Saturday will seem absurdly overpriced/wrong in your apartment on Tuesday.  So beware.

After shopping it was time for more eats.  Almondine on Water Street has light, sweet, and pretty (hey, it’s important) macaroons for $1 each, available in lemon, pistachio, chocolate, peanut butter, strawberry and one other flavor I can’t remember.   That unmarked door in the back left is a bathroom, by the way, so while you’re waiting in line (and wait you will), go and use it.   Across the street is Jacques Torres, home of extremely rich hot chocolate, truffles, and Cute Chocolate Gifts.   There’s a nice wine shop nearby, a branch of the Rice franchise, a Starbucks, and several pleasant looking, if crowded, restaurants.

Winding in and around it all are groups of young and youngish city-dwellers:  parents and toddlers, older couples on a stroll, artsy students buying chunky vintage beads.   And us, somewhere in between.

The walk back along the Brooklyn Bridge was much more scenic and much more crowded than the Manhattan Bridge route.  Besides the snap-happy tourists and the NY residents out enjoying the weather, the walkway (which is not much larger than a car lane in width) is frequented by very irritated cyclists who alternately yell, wave their arms, and ring their bike bells trying to get everyone out of their way.   Doesn’t really work.

Few things sound more, uh, impotent than the insistent ringing of a tinny bike bell.   If you want to ride your bike across the bridge, get there before the crowds do – or walk it.

Tags: Bubby's, DUMBO

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